In astonishingly simple terms, there are 3 main game plans used. You need to be agile enough to switch strategies almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.

The Blockade

This involves creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you might manage, to lock in the competitor’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most suitable course of action at the start of the match. You can create the wall anyplace inbetween your eleven-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the game progresses.

The Blitz

This involves locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. For example, if your opponent rolls an early 2 and moves one piece from your 1-point to your three-point and you then toss a five-five, you can play six/one 6/1 eight/three 8/3. Your opposer is then in serious trouble seeing that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your home board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have 2 or higher anchors in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a position consisting of at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It should be used when you are extremely behind as it much improves your opportunities. The strongest locations for anchor spots are towards your competitor’s smaller points and either on abutting points or with a single point separating them. Timing is essential for an effective backgame: besides, there is no reason having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to break down this straight away, while your opposer is moving their pieces home, seeing that you do not have any other spare pieces to move! In this case, it is more favorable to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position up until your challenger gives you a chance to hit, so it can be a good idea to try and get your opposer to hit them in this situation!